A sprat in bed? Yes exactly! It lies comfortably around the bed and reliably protects against drafts. It also cushions the bedsticks in baby beds and creates a homely limit that small children like. Larger children will also love the sprat as a side sleeper pillow. And anyway: you can never have enough sprats. Because even as a draft stopper on windows and doors, they are real heroes in autumn and winter! Give it a try. Franziska von Von Lange Hand

wishes you lots of fun sewing


  • 105 cm (L) × 40 cm (W) patterned canvas , e.g. Geobogen Mint Weiß (body)
  • 60 cm (L) × 20 cm (W) patterned canvas , e.g. dotted chains gray white (fins)
  • 30 cm (L) × 35 cm (W) linen Martin – Ecru (head & tail)
  • 4 cm × 4 cm remnant of jersey , e.g. in mint (cheeks)
  • 40 cm (L) × 20 cm (W) volume fleece
  • approx. 40 cm piping tape , e.g. jeans piping – dark
  • approx. 1 kg of foam flakes
  • Remaining adhesive fleece, e.g. Vliesofix, 4 cm × 4 cm
  • Embroidery thread dark blue
  • Rest of wool in natural white
  • sewing machine


If you want to sew a longer sprat for a larger bed, you can easily extend it. You will find a marker in the pattern. Cut the pattern apart at this point and extend the bed sprat individually according to your wishes.

A piping is sewn in between the head and body. The instructions show how easy it is. If this step is too complex for you, you can also omit the piping. Then just skip the step in the instructions and sew the head directly to the body.

Start with the head of the bed snake. For this, lay the fabric twice so that a breakline is created, this is the so-called breakline. You put the “head” pattern on this. Cut out the cut part once.

The fins and tail are cut in double layers of fabric, this time without broken fabric. Place the fabric twice and the volume fleece directly under the fabric. Fix the cut parts on it and cut the tail once. So that you now have two fabric cuts and a cut from volume fleece in front of you.

You cut the side fins and the dorsal fins twice according to this principle. You will then have two fabric cuts and one volume fleece cut in front of you.

For the body you lay the fabric twice again and align the cut part “body” with the broken fabric. Cut the part once. Important: Cut a piece along the fabric break at the front and back. In the pattern section you will find the exact marking for it.


The fins:

Start with the side fins. Place both fabric cuts on top of each other on the right. The cut from volume fleece lies under the two fabrics. Fix all layers and sew the parts together. Note: The short front edge remains open, as shown in the pattern!

Cut the seam allowances back or on the curves. Turn the fin on the right. A thin chopstick or a brush handle can help. Carefully shape the fin and topstitch it with a contrasting color yarn as marked in the pattern. According to this principle, you also sew the second side fin.

The two dorsal fins are worked in the same way. With them, the bottom edge remains open for turning. Also stitch the two finished dorsal fins from the right according to the markings in the pattern.

For the caudal fin, too, you place both fabric cuts on top of each other on the right. The volume fleece is down again. Here too you sew the fin along the contours and leave the front edge open for turning. After turning, carefully shape the fin and topstitch from the right according to the markings in the pattern. These quilting lines not only look nice, they also give the fins an additional portion so that they don’t bend.

The head:

In the pattern for the head you will find letters on the curves. They show you which edges should be sewn together. It starts with one of the two “A” edges. First lay the cut on top of each other so that the first two curves with the designation “A” meet. Fix them and sew the edges together. Note: Stop the seam 0.7 cm before the end of the curve as shown in the detail picture!

You will now sew the second “A” edge according to this pattern. Then the head is ready to sew on the cheeks.

To do this, first pause the contour of the cheeks twice on a rest of the fleece fix. The rough side is the adhesive side, it must face the paper! Cut out the cheeks roughly (!), Place them with the rough side down on the left (!) Side of the jersey and iron them on at medium temperature and with some pressure. Let them cool down briefly so that the adhesive can stick. Then carefully cut out the cheeks and remove the backing paper.

Cut the cheek out of the pattern. Now the cut part can be used as a template to mark the exact position of the cheek. Place it on the right side of the headboard and draw the outline with a trick marker. Then you can iron the prepared cheeks with the rough adhesive side down onto the marked area and sew them on after cooling. Because Jersey doesn’t fray, the straight stitch is enough. If you use woven fabrics for the cheeks, you should zigzag around the cheek so that the fabric cannot fray.
Now only sew the last curve together on the head. Put the part together so that the edges meet with the designation “B”. Sew them together and cut the seam allowances back here or cut them on the curves.

Turn your head and place it in front of you as shown in the picture. The former broken fabric lies between the cheeks and is the bottom of the head. On the seam at the top (this is where the “B” curves come together) you put a few wool fringes and fix them with a stitching inside the seam allowance. In the next step, the piping is sewn in. If you want to do without them, just skip the following paragraph.

Sew on piping:

Use the zipper foot to sew on the piping and choose the straight stitch so that the needle sticks in the middle of the ribbon. In the first step, the piping tape is sewn to the head. To do this, put the ribbon right to right on the edge of the head. Start at the bottom. At the beginning of the tape you leave a piece of 2 cm protruding. This is important so that you can sew the end clean afterwards. So sew the piping around the edge of the head. Stop the seam about 2 cm before you hit the protrusion at the beginning. Cut the piping tape so that the beginning and end overlap by about 3 cm, as can be seen in the first picture. Then loosen the seam on the protruding piping end and expose the inner cord. Cut the cord so that it meets the protruding beginning of the sewn-on piping tape.

You now push the end you have struck under the overhang from the beginning. The end of the volume almost envelops the protruding beginning. Now there is a clean transition between the ends and you can still sew on the rest of the ribbon.

Sew on fins:

Take the body blank and transfer the markings for the fins to the side where the head is to be sewn. Butting them you fix the fins on the right side of the fabric, as can be seen in the picture. Sew on both side fins with a tack within the seam allowance.

You will also find a mark on the pattern for sewing on the first dorsal fin. Transfer it, fix the fin and then hit the body part together along the fabric break. Sew the open edge together along the curve, the dorsal fin lies inside and is grasped.

There are also two incisions on the rear part of the body, which are sewn together similar to the darts in clothing. They ensure the round shape of the bed sprat. These edges are marked with “C” in the pattern. Combine them right to right and sew them together.

Now sew in the remaining dorsal fin according to the marking in the pattern. Then you fix the tail fin right to right at the end of the body part and sew it in too.

Sew body:

On the front of the body, you close the bottom seam up to the mark for the turning opening. Wait for this seam on the back to have enough space to sew the parts together. Slide the head turned to the right into the body part as the picture shows. The body part must not be turned over yet! When the edges meet, everything fits correctly. Fix the layers of fabric carefully.

Now use the zipper foot to sew the two layers of fabric together from the left side of the fabric. Set the needle far to the left so that when it is inserted it sticks close to the inner cord of the piping tape. The layers of fabric bulge out a bit due to the cord inside. You can use this arch as a guide for the foot.

Pull the head out of the body part, close the lower seam at the back of the body and turn the sprat through the opening to the right. First fill the head with foam flakes. Push the flakes firmly into the foremost corner so that the head is filled tightly. Before the body is stuffed, embroider the face.

Embroider mouth:

Pierce the needle anywhere around the cheek. Its tip should emerge again at the beginning of the mouth, as can be seen in the photo. Let a piece of the thread protrude, stab again at the beginning of the mouth, pull the thread to the loop, stick into the loop and pull it gently. Now the thread is knotted and you can pull the protruding end of the thread tight and cut it off. So it twists inside and no knot is visible. Now clamp the mouth around the seam with cloth clips. Closeness as the pictures show all around and give the sprat such a characteristic look.

Embroider eyes:

For the eyes you act like the mouth. Pierce again at any point, lay a loop, pull it tight so that the thread is fixed at the point where the eye should sit.

Now you work in a circle around the eye according to this principle until it has reached the desired strength. The thread is well fixed by the individual nodules. Finally, let the needle come out at any point, pull the thread tight and cut it. It disappears inside and is no longer visible.

Now fill the rest of the sprat until it has reached the desired filling strength. At the opening you put the seam allowances inwards and close the seam with the mattress stitch by hand.

Congratulations, your bed sprat is ready!