FREE SEWING PATTERN: PLUS SIZE LADIES SHIRT “HAVANA”



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The long shirt with charming details looks good over jeans or leggings, but is also often worn as a beach tunic. The gathers, which set a special highlight, can of course also be worked on other models.

You need:

  • patterned jersey : 140-200 cm
  • Cuffs or jersey : approx. 20 cm
  • Framilon band or narrow, not too thick rubber band, 10–15 cm

crop:

FROM MAIN FABRIC:

  • 1 x pattern 3 (front) with V-neck, cut into long shirt length with straight hem in the fabric break; Add seam allowances to the neckline, armholes and sides and hem allowance, mark the center front
  • 1 x pattern 2 (back) with a round neckline, cut into a long shirt length with a straight hem in the broken fabric; Add seam allowances to the neckline, armholes and sides and hem allowance
  • 2 x pattern 6 opposite, length: half sleeve, add seam allowances
  • 2 rectangles, 6.5 cm wide and 23 cm high
  • 2 jersey stripes, approx. 3 cm high and each 70–80 cm long

FROM CUFF OR JERSEY:

  • 1 strip, 4 cm high, in the length of the neckline x 0.8-0.85 plus seam allowance. Mark the center back (half the length of the cuff)
  • 2 strips, 4 cm high, in the length of the armholes x 0.8-0.85 plus seam allowance

SEAM ALLOWANCES:

No seam allowance has been added to the pattern. This way you can choose a seam allowance that best suits your preferred sewing style. If you like to sew a lot with the overlock, it is best to add 0.7-0.8 cm to the patterns. When sewing with the household sewing machine, an addition of 1 cm is common. Add 2 – 3 cm hem allowance to the hems.

That’s how it works:

Start gathering around the neckline. To do this, measure 10 cm down along the front center on the left side of the fabric and mark this line. Along this line, pin the Framilon ribbon to the tip of the V, at the beginning and at the end of the gathering, each about 1 cm unstretched. When plugging in, the Framilon band must be stretched, and relatively strongly, but not to the extreme. I cut the Framilon ribbon here 6 cm long. When plugging in, you can check how strong the ripple becomes and whether you also like it afterwards.



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Now the Framilon ribbon is sewn on from the left, ideally with a flat zigzag stitch. The gathering is now clearly visible on the front.

Sew the front and back parts together at the shoulder lines and iron the seam allowances backwards. Insert the sleeves into the armholes and then close the side seams of the sleeves and the front and back.

Iron the cuffs halfway lengthwise left to left. Place the open ends on top of each other so that they form a V and the end edge of one part abuts the side edge of the other part. Sew the ends together at the tip using a straight stitch.

Now the cuff is attached to the V-neck and sewn. First, the cuff is fixed in the area of ​​the tip of the V-neck with a straight stitch.

Then you can pin the cuff all around. It is helpful to first fix it halfway over the center back with a pin. In between, insert and sew the cuff slightly stretched. The seam allowances then iron on to the t-shirt.

The cuffs are also cleaned with cuffs. Before doing this, close them on the short sides to the right on the right and fold them halfway up on the left to the left. Then they are sewn evenly stretched right to right on the sleeve hems. The seams with which the cuffs were closed to form a ring meet the forearm seam.

You can topstitch the seam allowances of the cuffs on the neckline and sleeve seams. Use a narrow zigzag stitch or the straight stitch of your household sewing machine.

Finally, the t-shirt is hemmed, here with the simple turn-up hem.

Now the gathers are worked on the side seams. To do this, iron all edges of the rectangles 0.7 cm wide towards the left side of the fabric. If necessary, you can clean the edges beforehand with the overlock machine. The folded seam allowance is sewn to one of the short edges.

Turn the t-shirt over and stick a rectangle left and left in the middle over one of the side seams. The previously sewn edge is at the bottom and ends with the hem. Sew the rectangle on the sides and top with the straight stitch of the household sewing machine. An additional seam, which ends approx. 1.5 cm before the upper edge, is placed vertically in the middle of the rectangle. Secure the top seam end well. Repeat the process on the other side of the shirt.

Now take the 70-80 cm long jersey stripes and pull on both ends so that they roll up and a round band is created. (Alternatively, you can use a finished cord or ribbon of your choice.) Now the jersey stripes have to be pulled through the tunnel in a U-shape – the easiest way to do this is with a safety pin.

When you pull on the jersey stripes, the fabric is gathered – you decide how strong the gathering is. To make the gathering durable, tie the jersey ribbons in a bow or knot them. You can shorten the ends of the jersey ribbons if necessary and secure them with a knot.

TIP: You can also extend the rectangles for the drawstring with which the side gathers are worked. You could also work similar gathers on sleeve hems across the side seam. Alternatively, you can work such details with Framilonband.

 



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