Your child wants a pony? Then sew him one. With the horse-shaped beanbag, the children’s room becomes a pony farm. It only takes a few simple steps to sew the sitting horse yourself. It measures 85 cm in length from the snout to the turnip and is sized so that children up to primary school age can ride comfortably on it.
Its filling of viscose-elastic foam flakes adapts perfectly to the body when sitting, but still gives the horse enough grip. No matter how crumpled the horse beanbag is, the material always returns to its original state. So nothing stands in the way of wild rides through the children’s room. So that the filling cannot come out at any point, each seam is additionally stitched. Sewn from Cordura imitation fabric, the horse is ready for all adventures. Stains can be easily removed with a damp cloth. The solid outdoor fabric is extremely abrasion-resistant and water-repellent. He also has a great stand. Made to give the beanbag the necessary support. You can use disused sweaters or remnants of jersey for the mane. So the horse becomes an upcycling project.
Because riding is not everything (small riders know that exactly), the beanbag horse brings the equipment to play with. The sewing instructions explain how the removable saddle and the bridle are sewn, as well as the feeding equipment with buckets and carrots.
Despite its size and robustness, the horse can be sewn with the normal sewing machine . All you need is a little space on the sewing table, firmer sewing thread and a strong needle, preferably 100 gauge, or you use jeans needles.
For the horse:
- 1.50 m outdoor fabric Cordura imitation Julian dark gray
- discarded sweater for the mane, alternatively jersey 40 cm
- possibly remnants of fabric for the inside of the ears, 15 cm × 10 cm per ear
- Remnants of fabric in white and black for eyes and nostrils
- 4 kg of foam flakes for filling
- tearproof sewing thread
For saddle and bridle:
- 50 cm × 134 cm vintage synthetic leather, e.g. light brown
- 60 cm × 30 cm (woven) fabric for the back of the saddle, e.g. cotton or canvas
- 2 pocket carabiners, e.g. gunmetal, 25 mm
- 2 D-rings, e.g. gunmetal, 25 mm
- 80 cm rubber band , 25 mm wide, e.g. plain jeans
For the feed bucket:
- 65 cm × 20 cm embroidery felt , 3 mm, e.g. gray melange
- 65 cm × 22 cm woven fabric, e.g. cotton or canvas
- 55 cm hoodie cord , 8 mm, e.g. milk white
- 2 eyelets , 8 mm plus appropriate tool for attachment
For the carrots:
- Rest of embroidery felt (max. 1.5 mm thick), nicky , jersey or sweat in red, approx. 25 cm × 20 cm
- Rest of jersey or embroidery felt , (max. 1.5 mm thick) in green, approx. 8 cm × 10 cm
- Rest of filling cotton , approx. 20 g
You can also buy our material package in the shop, which contains the paper pattern and all the sewing ingredients for the beanbag horse, saddle and bridle. You can use jersey scraps for the mane and carrots. These are not included in the material package.
SIZE OF THE FINISHED HORSE:
- Length: 85 cm
- Width: 50 cm
- Withers: 40 cm
- Highest point of the neck: 60 cm
For fabric cutting:
For a better overview, take a look at the map, which is included in the pattern folder. It makes it easier to arrange the parts on the fabric.
Important: seam and hem allowances are already included in all the details and pattern pieces. The seam allowance is 1 cm.
In order not to perforate the fabric too much, I recommend sewing with longer stitches than usual. Stitch length 3 to 4 has proven itself with the solid outdoor fabric.
In general, it is advisable to sew the beanbag with firmer thread, but some sewing machines find it difficult to do so. For our test, we sewed the beanbag with normal polyester thread – and it worked well. Then, for safety, choose the triple straight stitch (also in stitch length 3 to 4) to be absolutely sure that nothing breaks later when you play.
We used white thread to better show the seams in the instruction photos. For your horse, you should of course choose yarn that matches the color of the fabric.
Oh, and one more thing: don’t be surprised why the horse looks so small in the instruction pictures – it really is. In order to show the individual steps better, it had to shrink to 35%. Large or small, the horse is always sewn the same. Here we go!
THAT’S HOW IT WORKS
Each ear consists of two cuts, one for the back and one for the front. It looks nice if you use a different colored fabric for the inside of the ears. For the example I chose a rest of Nicky, plush, teddy or sweat work just as well. Place both ear parts on top of each other on the right and stitch together along the contours. The lower side of the ears remains open, as can be seen in the picture. Cut the seam allowances without damaging the seam and then turn your ears through the opening on the right.
Shape the ears well and fold one side inwards about 1 cm, so that a fold is created, as can be seen in the picture. Fix the fold with cloth clips or a stitching. It continues with the face of the horse.
Sew eyes and nostrils
The eye and nostrils are marked on the paper cut part for the side part of the horse. Cut it out, place the stencil on the right side of the fabric cut and mark the position of the eye and nostrils on the fabric. Use the cut out eye and the nostrils as a template and cut out two circles for the eyes from the white fabric residue and two small circles for the pupils and the nostrils from the black fabric residue.
Fix the parts with pins and sew around their contours with colored thread. If you use non-fraying fabrics such as felt, it is sufficient to sew the eyes and nostrils in a normal straight stitch. On the other hand, if you have chosen fabrics that could prick up, I recommend a narrow zigzag stitch. Don’t forget to repeat these steps on the second side of your body! So the two parts are ready for the next steps.
Sew in mane and tail
The fabric of the sweaters can be used for the mane. This way you save material and make your horse a very special one-off. Basically you can use any type of fabric for the mane. Jersey has the advantage of not fraying. Woven fabrics can unravel in the long run. The mane then looks a little wilder. In the case of an old sweater, the lower areas of the front and back side create a strip of fabric. A strip should measure approximately 40 cm x 40 cm. The slightly longer sleeves are great for the tail.
Cut the mane fabric into fringes as shown in the picture. On the cut for “back 1” you will find a mark for sewing in the mane.
Fix the mane strip along this mark on the right side of the fabric on the back part. Important: leave 1 cm space to the edge (forehead)! Repeat this step if you want to add more volume to the mane. Depending on how heavy the jersey fabric is, you can staple up to three mane strips on top of each other.
Once the mane is fixed, fold the back section lengthways in half (so that the mane is on the inside) and close the gap. You sew in the mane at the same time.
You do the same for the tail. First mark the middle of the back strip. There you fix the fringed fabric strips for the tail. You place the “Back 2” blank on the part so that the edges meet and the tail lies inside. The right side of the fabric is inside! Step both parts together.
So that the tail lies nice later, you stitch this seam from the right.
The pony is missing for the perfect mane. For this you need at least two jersey stripes (8 cm long and approx. 20 cm wide – depending on how long the pony should be). Sew it into the cut for the front of the head using the same principle as the mane. Again, note that there must be 1 cm space to the edge (forehead)!
Put the horse together
The front of the head and the first side of the horse are now put together. First, take the front of the head with the sewn-in bangs on hand. Place it on the side part of the horse so that the front edge of the front of the head meets the dart of the side part. The part runs around the horse’s snout. The right sides of the fabric look at each other. Fix everything carefully with pins as shown in the picture and sew both parts together. Stop the seam 1 cm before the lower end of the front of the head! This makes it easier to sew on the second side part afterwards.
Cut the seam allowances back or on the curves and topstitch this seam from the right. Some of the seam allowances show “head front”.
Repeat these steps with the second side part and sew it analogously to the front of the head.
In the next step you sew the back to the first side part.
Fix the back carefully on the side part, especially on the curves. Then stitch the parts together and then cut the seam allowances on the curves.
Do the same for the second side panel.
Then turn the horse to the right and stitch the seams along the back again from the right.
Now slide the prepared ears into the remaining slit on the horse’s forehead. The ears are properly seated when the fold is facing the head (and not the side part), the front of the ear is facing the front of the horse’s head and the open ear edges protrude from the horse. If everything fits, you close the slot with a seam. The ears are also included.
Now sew the front edges of the side panels together. You can also topstitch this seam from the right for safety.
In the last step the horse and the ground are connected. The straight edge remains open as a turning opening. Warning, don’t be surprised: the bottom part is approx. 3 cm longer than the horse. This is specially designed. The protrusion is later folded in as a seam allowance and serves as protection that the filling cannot escape.
Also cut the seam allowances along the curves on the floor. and turn the horse through the remaining opening to the right.
Probably the trickiest comes at the end: the filling. The best way to do this is with an additional helping hand. Then one can hold the horse’s mouth while the second can fill the beanbag. The foam flakes are easy to grip by hand. So you can bring the filling into the horse in a very targeted way. This is particularly important on the head and neck. Stuff the horse as hard as you can. If you think that nothing works anymore, experience has shown that a lot can go in. The solid filling is very important to give the horse a lot of stance.
Finally, put the seam allowances inwards at the opening and sew them by hand. The mattress or ladder stitch is best suited for this.
Now is the time to pat you on the shoulder: your beanbag horse is ready.
Sew saddle and bridle
For the saddle, choose synthetic leather or robust fabric, for example canvas. The back is suitable for thinner webware. Take the paper template to hand and cut the saddle out of each fabric once in the fold. Attention: If your fabrics have a pattern, they must be cut in opposite directions!
The elastic band for the saddle strap measures 77 cm. This length can vary depending on the elasticity of the rubber and the filling strength of the horse. For safety, measure the circumference of your horse’s abdomen and adjust the length of the rubber if necessary. Fix the ends of the rubber band in the middle of the lower ends of the saddle sheet. You will find a corresponding mark on the saddle paper cut part. The rubber must be on the right side of the saddle blank and may protrude about 1 cm above the saddle blank.
Place both saddle cuts on top of each other on the right, the elastic band is between the parts. Fix everything carefully so that nothing can slip and stitch the layers of fabric around each other. The rubber band is sewn with it. Important: there must be a turning opening at the front! Then cut the seam allowances on the curves.
Turn the saddle through the opening on the right and shape it well. You put the seam allowances at the opening inside. So prepared the saddle is ready for topstitching from the right.
It looks nice if you use the look of a real saddle for topstitching. You will find marking lines for this on the paper cut part. When topstitching, you automatically close the remaining opening.
Cut two strips from the synthetic leather. Both strips are 2 cm wide, one 76 cm long and one 43 cm. As an alternative to synthetic leather, you can also use a 2 cm wide webbing for the bridle.
The longer of the two stripes runs behind the horse’s ears. Knock the ends of the strip 4 cm inwards (the loop that is created must be wide enough for the second strip to be easily pulled through) and insert a D-ring into the loop. Once everything is in place, fix the strip and close the loop with a seam.
Guide the second, shorter strip through the loops and put the bridle on the horse to test it. Depending on the strength of the filling, the size of the horse’s snout can vary. Fits the length, you close the shorter strip with a seam to the ring. Then fix the loops with a seam so that they cannot slip and the bridle is ready.
The strip for the reins is also 2 cm wide and 1 m long. Pull the ends through the two carabiners, fold the ends inwards and fix them with a seam.
Sew the feed bucket
Felt and canvas are suitable for the bucket. Both already have a certain stability. If the fabrics are too thin, you can reinforce them with ironing fleece. The template for the bucket bottom can be found on the cut floor. For the inside of the bucket you also need a fabric strip with a width of 22 cm and a length of 48 cm. The strip for the outside measures 20 cm wide and 48 cm long. Cut the parts. Lay the strips for the outside and inside of the bucket in half. Fix it on the short edge and close it with a seam to form a ring.
From the bottom you fix the floor on the right and on the right and sew it onto both parts. Then turn the outer bucket to the right. The inside remains unturned. Put both buckets together so that the left sides of the fabric face each other.
The inner bucket protrudes 2 cm from the outer bucket. Turn this supernatant twice and topstitch it from the right. Now you only attach the two eyelets as shown in the picture.
The cord for the handle measures 55 cm in length. Pull it through the eyelets and tie the ends of the cord inside the bucket.
For each carrot you need two cuts according to the carrot template and two strips of green fabric for the carrot green, approx. 4 cm wide and 10 cm long. Cut the fringed green stripes as shown in the picture.
Place the two carrot cuts lengthways in half and close the seam at the top of the wedge.
Place the cuts for the green fringes on top of each other and fix them on the right side of the fabric at the top of one of the two carrot cuts (the one with the sewn-in wedge). Then pick up the second carrot cut …
… and position it on the first one. The right sides of the fabric look towards each other and the carrot green lies between the two parts. Fix the layers of fabric carefully and sew them all around each other. An opening must remain on the long edge for turning.
Turn the carrot through the opening on the right, carefully shape it and fill it with cotton wool.
Now just put the seam allowances at the opening inwards and close the hole by hand. This works best with a mattress or ladder stitch. And the carrot is ready!