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Are you still looking for a sweet Easter gift for your mice?
How about the no bunny “Winni”? The cute guy is sewn of cozy cotton fleece and at least makes my children’s eyes shine. All three, even my tall one, wanted such a sweet cuddly friend. You can sew Winni as a bunny girl with a bow and skirt or as a bunny boy with a bow tie.
Whichever variant you choose, I hope you enjoy sewing.

You need:

  • Fabric 1: white cotton fleece (head, arms, legs, ears, tail) approx. 50 x 35 cm
  • Fabric 2: cotton fabric in pink (ears), approx. 20 x 15 cm
  • Fabric 3:  patterned cotton fabric (belly), approx. 40 x 16 cm
  • Fleece insert : iron-on fleece line H 250 , approx. 20 x 15 cm
  • Jersey residues for the applications of eyes, nose and cheeks
  • Vliesofix
  • tearable embroidery fleece
  • color-matching sewing thread
  • water-soluble marker or pencil
  • Chopsticks for turning (e.g. a chopstick)
  • washable cotton wool
Optional for skirt and bow:
  • Fabric 4:  patterned cotton , approx. 60 x 13 cm
  • Elastic band: 8 mm wide, approx. 30 cm
  • Lace band : approx. 40 cm


The seam allowance of 1 cm is already included in the pattern pieces. The applications (face) are cut without seam allowance.

Fabric 1 (white cotton fleece):
2 x head
2 x ears (opposite)
2 x legs (opposite)
2 x arms (opposite)
2 x tail (opposite)

Fabric 2 (cotton fabric in pink):
2 x ears (opposite)

Fabric 3 (patterned cotton):
1 x belly front part
2 x belly back part (opposite)

Vlieseline H 250:
– 2 x ears (opposite)

Jersey residues:
black: 2 x eyes (without NZ)
white: 2 x highlights large and small (without NZ)
pink: 1 x nose, 2 x cheeks (without NZ)

Optional (for skirt and bow):

Fabric 4 (patterned cotton):
1 x 40 x 13 cm (without NZ)
1 x 15 x 8 cm (without NZ)
1 x 5 x 4 cm (without NZ)

That’s how it works:

First use the templates to cut out all the pattern pieces from the pattern sheet and out. The seam allowance is already included in the cut parts.

Tip: I also draw the seam line (i.e. the outline of the pattern without seam allowance). This facilitates the exact sewing of the individual parts.


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Now place the two pieces of fleece line with the adhesive side on the left side of the fabric of the inner ears (the pink cotton fabric) and iron them on.

Now put the two parts for the ears right to right, pin them and stitch them all around. The bottom page remains open. Now cut back the seam allowance to approx. 3 mm and clean the ears with a zigzag stitch. Use the turning stick to turn your ears. Shape the contours nicely and iron them.

Now fold the two sides of the ears inwards at the lower, open edge so that they touch in the middle and quilt them with a few stitches inside the seam allowance.

Now you take the two parts for the tail. Put them right to right and step them off. Here, too, the lower edge remains open. Cut the seam allowance back to 3 mm, turn the tail, shape the contours nicely and iron it. You do not have to overcast the fleece fabric because it does not fray.

Place the finished tail on a cut part for the back (see illustration). Now place the second cut part right over right and pin everything firmly.
Now stitch the two parts and the tail together. Cut back the seam allowance, overcast the seam and iron the back piece.

Now place a head part on the right and right on the back and the belly. Quilt the pieces together. Cut back the seam allowance, overcast the seam and iron the parts.

Now take the parts for the arms and legs at hand. Put them right to right and stitch them together. Make sure to leave a turning opening on the outside of your arms and legs. Cut the seam allowance back to 3 mm (except at the turning opening). Turn the parts and shape the contours nicely. You do not have to overcast the fleece fabric because it does not fray.

Now it’s time to apply the face.

Place the template for the application under the fleece fix. Now you can easily transfer all individual parts of the motif in pencil to the paper side of the Vliesofix. A seam allowance is not necessary here. Roughly cut out all parts. In order not to lose the overview, it is helpful to label everything (e.g. eye, highlights, cheek, etc.).

Now the roughly cut parts are ironed with the rough adhesive side down onto the left side of the desired fabric. Note the thread course. Let the iron get really hot beforehand (setting: on cotton, without steam). Make sure that the fleece fix adheres well everywhere.

You can now carefully cut out all the individual parts from the fabric stabilized by the Vliesofix. Use sharp nail or hand scissors for small or delicate parts.

Next, carefully remove the protective paper from all individual parts. The Vliesofix adhesive layer adheres to the back of the fabric.

Now you take the front part of the rabbit by hand and position all parts using the template from the pattern sheet until they are correct. Now the individual parts are carefully ironed on. To do this, place the iron briefly on the fabric (do not slide back and forth) to roughly fix the parts. If they stick you can iron as usual. Check whether everything is really stuck. To protect against fabric damage, place a cloth or baking paper between the fabric and the iron.

Draw a thin line of your eyebrows and mustache with a pencil or trick marker. Place a piece of tearable embroidery fleece under your head.

Now sew the fixed parts tight. You can use matching color or contrasting thread for this. Since they are made of jersey and do not fray, you can use the straight stitch for this. Now you choose a small stitch length so that you can work precisely even with very small motif parts. You always sew here within the application. Prick the needle as close to the edge as possible and close the motif part close to the edge.

You should always adjust the sewing speed to the size and level of difficulty of the individual parts. If you do not have as much experience with the application, sew a little more slowly. In difficult places you can only work with the handwheel.

While sewing, carefully turn the fabric. In the event of extreme changes in direction such as corners and tight curves, stop the sewing machine, lower the needle into the fabric, raise the presser foot, bring the fabric into the correct position and continue sewing carefully.

Do not cut the start and end threads. Afterwards they are pulled in with a needle and knotted so that the seam does not open again.

When you have finished applying, you can tear out the embroidery fleece on the back.

Now turn the front part of the rabbit to the right, position the ears, arms and legs as in the picture and pin all parts firmly.
Now put the back part right to right on the front part and stitch everything all around. Leave a turn opening on the side of the rabbit.
Cut the seam allowance back to 3 mm (except at the turning opening), sew the seam with a zigzag stitch and turn your rabbit over. Shape all contours beautifully and iron them.

Stuff all parts of the rabbit well with cotton wool, fold the seam allowances of the turning openings inwards and close the turning openings with the mattress stitch by hand. Your bunny is ready!

Sew skirt and bow (optional)

Cut a rectangle with the dimensions 40 cm x 13 cm out of cotton fabric (fabric 4). The seam allowance is already included here. Fold the top long side 1 cm inwards and iron well. Then fold the side another 1.5 cm inwards and iron it again.

Steppe now just along the fold edge, so that a tunnel is created. The rubber band is then pulled through it later.

Now place the lace on the bottom long fabric edge on the right, sew it on and sew the seam. Now fold the tip down and fold the fabric over the seam allowance (see illustration).

Now topstitch the lower edge at a distance of about 1 cm from the break and iron everything well.

Now pull the rubber band through the tunnel on the upper side and gather the fabric. Check if the skirt fits by putting the gathered fabric strip around the rabbit’s belly and holding the rubber together. The finished skirt should be tight but not too tight. When you have determined the desired width, fix the rubber band with a safety pin, put the short sides of the skirt on top of each other on the right and sew them together. Cut back the seam allowance and the excess rubber band and clean up the seam. Turn the skirt. Finished!

For the loop you cut two rectangles. One with the dimensions 15 x 8 cm and one with the dimensions 5 x 5 cm.

Fold the big rectangle in the middle and topstitch it all around. Leave a turning opening. Cut the seam allowance back to 3 mm up to the turning opening and finish the seam with a zigzag stitch. Turn the rectangle over. Fold the seam allowance inwards and iron everything well. Topstitch the rectangle all around.

Now take the small piece of fabric by hand, turn it inside out and fold the outside inwards in the middle. Now fold it in the middle again and quilt the edge with a narrow edge. Fold the resulting strip apart so that the seam is now in the middle. Iron the strip well.

Fold the strip together in the middle with the seam facing outwards and sew it together.
Cut back the seam allowance, overcast the seam and turn the resulting ring so that the seam is on the inside. Now you have a ring and a fabric rectangle.

Fold the fabric rectangle into an accordion and slide the ring over it. Pull the bow apart and sew the ring on the back with a few stitches to the bow. Finished.

Now you can put on Winni’s skirt and decorate her with the bow. If you want to sew Winni as a boy, you can use the bow as a bow tie.

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