Click and Buy Knitting E-book




Did you hear this sentence regularly as a child when you could not find something and asked your mother for help? I learned that with order, but I have to admit: I am still not particularly good at keeping order. Over time I developed a few tricks that make cleaning up easier for me. Baskets and utensils, with which the many things of everyday life can be sorted more conveniently, play an important role. The larger the storage containers are, the more quietly they fit into a room.

The “Orden” maxi utensils are sewn from Snappap. This gives them enough stance not to collapse despite their size. Inside they are lined with fabric, and so that everything looks neat, you can close it with a drawstring. So not only toys in the children’s room or the cozy sofa blankets in the living room find their place – you can also stow away laundry, firewood or DIY materials in a neat and orderly way.

You need:

  • Snappap (Snappap Plus is not suitable due to its lower rigidity!)
    Angular: 3 arches 0.5 mx 1.50 m
    Round: 3 arches 0.5 mx 1.50 m
  • Lining cloth (for example, canvas or woven cotton fabrics )
    Angular: 2.0 mx 1.5 m
    round: 1.5 mx 1.5 m
Accessories (both variants):
  • 60 cm Releda strap
  • 2m cotton cord (8 mm)
  • eyelets  (8 mm diameter)
  • book screws (2 mm)
  • Shrink tube for cord ends (9.5 mm transparent)
  • Extra strong sewing thread
  • Wonder tape

That’s how it works:

I will now explain step by step how the Maxi Utensilos medals are sewn. The seam lines are marked in red in the photos. Each seam is secured with a few back stitches at the beginning and end! Snappap is very stiff. You can knead it a little to make it softer. This makes it easier for you to turn later, but it reduces the level of the material, so you should not work on it too much. Please do not wash it before sewing if the utensil should be stable!

For seams in Snappap, the stitch length must be increased to at least 3.5 mm! If the distances between the stitches are too short, the material will weaken, so that the seams could tear when turning!

The basic steps for the angular and the round variant are the same. In the steps that differ, you will find a separate description for each of the variants. So read through every step before you start sewing!

Cut all parts according to the label on the cut sheet. Transfer the markings for clips and book screws. The markings for the eyelets and patches are only drawn on one of the blanks of the cut part “closure”, below the breaking edge. If you are unsure about this, you can transfer the position later. This step will become more understandable in the course of the instructions!

Punch the holes for the book screws with the punch or 3mm punch and cut the seam allowance at the markings for the clips.



Click and Buy Knitting E-book




Place the two pattern pieces for the sides on right on top of each other. Secure them to the short sides with Wonderclips and sew the sides together. Make sure to adhere to the seam allowance of 1cm exactly!

angular:

Pick up the cut piece for the floor. Mark the middle of the short sides. Now you fasten the bottom with the short edges with Wonderclips on the lower edges of your sewn sides. The centers match the seams. Sew the short edges tight. Start and finish the seams 1cm from the corner.

round:

Pick up the cut piece for the floor. Mark the middle at the breaking edge. Secure the bottom to the bottom edge of the side parts with Wonderclips so that the center marking matches the side seams. Now sew the bottom in two opposite segments between the buttons.

angular:

Attach the long edges to the lower edges of the side parts with Wonderclips. Work from the center outwards. Now sew the two long edges tight.

Then you can turn the utensil. Repeat steps 2-4 with the lining pieces.

round:

Now snap in the seam allowance until just before the seam. Check the position of the floor and correct it if necessary, then sew two opposite segments back in place. Now repeat these steps until the bottom is sewn all around.

Then you can turn the utensil. Repeat steps 2-4 with the lining pieces. 

Fix the two patches made of Snappap with a short piece of Wondertape in the position shown in the pattern on the right side of the fabric of one of the fastener cuts. Sew them all around tight. Now you sew a cross diagonally across the corners. The ends of the seams may protrude slightly beyond the corners of the patch. Now punch a hole in the middle of the patches with the punching tool for 8mm eyelets and insert the eyelets.

Place the two cuts for the closure on top of each other on the right and sew them together at the short edges.

Now you fold the fabric together as a tunnel. The bottom edges lie on top of each other, the break edge forms the top edge all around. The right sides of the fabric face outwards.

Turn the lining silo so that the left side of the fabric is facing out. Now take the tunnel you just sewed and put it side seam on side seam in the utensil so that the side with the eyelets is visible. Fix the edges on top of each other and sew the tunnel all around in the utensilo made of lining material.

Stepp a seam 6cm apart parallel to the top of the lock tunnel. You can mark the distance with Washitape on the sewing machine so that you can maintain it evenly. Place a hand measure with the 6cm mark under the presser foot and stick the washitape on the end of the hand measure.

Mark a line 5 cm from the top edge on the inside of the Snappap utensil. Place the lining silo with the seam between the closure tunnel and the silo body exactly below this line. You can fix the position with Wondertape or with some pins. The right side of the fabric silage utensil is pointing inwards (you will see it later!) Close all around in the shadow of the existing seam, the lining silo is firmly attached to the snappap utensil.

Cut two 2.5 cm long pieces of heat shrink tubing and pull them onto the ends of the cord. Push it once so far on the cord that the ends stick out, then cut the end of the cord cleanly and push the shrink tube with about 2mm overhang over the cord end. Gently warm it over the flame of a lighter so that it contracts and wraps around the end of the cord (you can also work with a candle flame, but candles are sootier so that the tube can change color). Now you can pull the cord into the tunnel.

Cut the Releda strap into two pieces, each 30 cm long. If you want you can round off the ends. Punch a 3mm hole in the belt with 1cm distance from the cutting edge. Attach the strap to the holes punched in the Snappap utensil with book screws. Make sure the straps don’t twist.

Your utensil is ready!



Click and Buy Knitting E-book




Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *